The Cooking of Parma

By Richard Camillo Sidoli

Mention Emilian cooking and most people think of Bologna -- tortellini, sugo alla bolognese, and all the other marvel that have gained the city the epithet Bologna la Grassa, Bologna the rich.

However, it's not the only gastronomic spotlight shining in the Emilian firmament, nor is it necessarily even the earliest. When Hannibal crossed the Alps with the intent of crushing Rome, the peoples inhabiting the north-facing valleys to the west of what is now Bologna fed him the traditional welcoming meal of bread and prosciutto, for here at last was someone who would put a stop to the encroachers who had already subjugated the Etruscan cities to the south and were now advancing upon then. Hannibal was so pleased with the reception that he named the place Parma; one can only wonder what sort of reception the Romans received when they finally defeated him many years later. They did allow the town to keep its name, in any case, and rapidly developed a keen interest in the foods of the region.

This should come as no surprise, for the people had more than just prosciutto to offer -- they were already making the precursor to Parmigiano Reggiano, and were expert horticulturists too. The fall of the Romans didn't mean the fall of the cuisine, but the opposite, as a succession of new rulers came in and the local cooks absorbed the foreign influences they brought with them. The end result is one of Italy's most sophisticated cuisines, one that deftly combines the light and the hearty, the sweet and the savory, the simple and the elegant.

Mr. Sidoli's ancestors left the Regione Parmense a century ago and went into the restaurant business upon their arrival in the Americas. In the introduction he says they enjoyed considerable success, and that too comes as no surprise -- he grew up in the kitchen with a spoon for a rattle, and the recipes he presents are clear proof they taught him well. Given their relatively limited number (about 150), the selection is cursory, but complete, with something for everyone and for every occasion. It begins with antipasti and works though polenta, pasta, stuffed pasta, risotti, and other minestre asciutte, followed by soups and porridges, followed in turn by meat dishes of all kinds, greens and other side dishes, and closes with cakes, tarts, ice creams, and sample menus. The recipes authentic -- Mr. Sidoli didn't simply rely on his American relatives' recollections, but also spent considerable time in the regione Parmense -- and are delightfully seasoned with his comments and discussions of ingredients and techniques.

For example:

Pegai
(P. 51)

The easiest to make filled pasta is found only in the Apennines. Originally a meatless Lenten dish, pegai, and a salad, is a fantastic meal any time. Aunt Irma always wondered why Nonna Vecchia never tasted the filling before cooking, so one time we did taste and discovered that pegai is a good example of how food changes chemically as it cooks. What is not so wonderful in its raw state develops magnificent tastes in the process.

For the pegai:

1 pound chestnut flour
1 1/3 to 1 1/2 cups milk
3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
Salt and pepper
1 recipe pasta fresca (see page 39)

For the sauce:

1 pound ricotta at room temperature
1 1/3 cups milk at room temperature
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
2 tablespoons chopped parsley (optional)
Salt and pepper
Freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano

To make the pegai: Put the chestnut flour in a mixing bowl and slowly stir in the milk until the mixture is the consistency of peanut butter. Add the cheese and salt and pepper to taste.

Roll out the pasta dough paper thin. Spread the chestnut filling on 1/2 of the sheet of dough and carefully fold the other half over the filling, gently pressing out any air. Cut into 1/2 by 1-inch diagonal rectangles. Although it seems as though the filling will slip out the cut edges, it will not.

To make the sauce: Put the ricotta in a large mixing bowl and whip in the milk. Mix in the walnuts and the salt and pepper to taste.

Bring 2 1/2 quarts of water to a boil in a pot and add a pinch of salt. Drop in the pegai and cook them at a medium boil for 8 minutes, or until they are al dente. Drain the pegai in a colander and add them to the sauce. Sprinkle with the parsley and pass the Parmigiano at the table.

One could do much worse. A book you'll like, especially come holiday time. It's also beautifully illustrated and laid out, and will thus make a nice gift.
Sounds Good! I'd like to see the Order Form.

Publishing Info:
1996 Rizzoli International
ISBN 0847819264
Hard Cover, 190 pp, illustrated with photographs.