Il Carnevale di Viareggio

Last year, the dominant concerns of the floats at Viareggio's Carnevale were the environment, violence in the stadiums, and the mindlessness of television. This year they've decided not to follow any particular theme, which probably means we'll get more politics than we did in 1996. There's certainly plenty of material, from the center-left government (Italy's first) to the trials and tribulations of the country's most popular politician, Di Pietro. Politics will not be all, however. We shall likely see at least one tribute to Marcello Mastroianni.

Sua Maestá Carnevale will arrive in Viareggio, heralded by fireworks and a parade, on January 25. On Sunday the floats will appear on the boardwalk for the first time, at 3 PM; they will also parade on February 2, 9 and 16.

Cumulative tickets for all four parades run £ 30.000, while tickets for any individual Sunday run £ 17.000. Tickets for groups of 25 or more are 12.000 each, as are tickets for children between the ages of 7 and 12. Children 6 or under get in free. These tickets simply allow access to the boardwalk; a reserved seat in one of the bleachers will cost an additional £ 15.000. Tickets for the bleachers, and group tickets must be purchased directly from the Fondazione Carnevale (Palazzo delle Muse, Piazza Marini 2; Tel 0584/962.568, Fax 8584/47077). Since the parades draw large crowds even if it rains, and parking can be difficult at Viareggio, you may want to go in the morning, and enjoy lunch in one of Viareggio's fine seafood restaurants.