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When God Lived in Ife


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The Queen Mother, Benin (XVI Century) Mention great artistic traditions, and you'll perhaps think of Greece, or China, and certainly Italy. You might not think of Nigeria. The Medici did, however, and at one point managed to obtain several delicate ivories made by the artisans of Ife, one of the most important Sub-Saharan cities of the time. Nothing larger, however, and they must have wondered at what else the artists were doing. They'd have been amazed, and Benvenuto Cellini would likely have been impressed as well, because the city boasted extraordinary sculptors for whom bronze held few if any secrets, and the heads they cast radiate a spellbinding mixture of calm serenity and poise.

Mastery of this sort doesn't just suddenly appear, of course, and neither does artistic expression, and the organizers of the Dio Abitava a Ife show have assembled an extraordinary collection of artworks that span a period of almost 2000 years, beginning with artifacts made in Nok in the 5th-6th centuries BC, followed by those of Igbo-Ukwi, which flourished during the European Middle Ages, and then those of Ife and Benin, which were among Africa's most powerful city states until the arrival of the Europeans plunged the Continent into a period of darkness from which it has yet to emerge.

A rooster, Benin (Post 1500)Getting down to specifics, the earliest pieces are terracottas from Nok, which may be coeval with the Etruscans, but have a surprisingly modern feel to them. The bronzes are more recent, ranging from the IX to the XIX centuries and span several city states; the pieces include stylized heads and sculptures of royalty, a pair of beautiful bronze cheetahs, and a number of bas reliefs, including one showing a Portuguese aiming his rifle. In addition to the sculptures there are photographs of the artworks by the great 19th century photographer Herbert List, and if you're interested in photography they add greatly to the value of the show.

Teracotta head, OWO (XV Century)The show is all the more important because all of the pieces were released from the vaults of Nigerian museums, where they have been kept since the early 80s, safe from the unrest that besets the country. In other words, this is the sort of opportunity that may not come again; while it is true that in July the show will continue on to Monte Carlo, where it will be the centerpiece of a major show of contemporary African art, it's also true that in Monte Carlo the pieces will be surrounded by hundreds of others. Here they have the space to themselves, with nothing else to vie for their attention.

Practical things:

  • Quando Dio Abitava a Ife: A collection of about 50 Nigerian terracotta and bronze sculptures dating from the Vth century BC to the XIX century AD
  • Where? Florence's Palazzo Strozzi (Piazza Strozzi), and daily 10-8, through July 3, 2005
  • Admission: 8 Euros, or 6.50 for students.
  • For further information, see http://www.anticanigeria.it (In Italian, alas).