Il Corridoio Vasariano

Map of the Corridoio Vasariano The multitude of princes, nobles, ambassadors and commoners who took part in the sumptuous celebrations organized at the end of 1565 for the marriage of Prince Regent Francesco de'Medici to Princess Giovanna D'Austria, were astonished not just by the way the artists of the Accademia delle Arti del Disegno decorated the route the Princess and her courtiers were to follow from Porta al Prato to Palazzo Vecchio, but also by an incredible new architectural marvel: The Corridoio Vasariano.

Ordered by Grand Duke Cosimo I and built by Giorgio Vasari between March and September 1565, the Corridoio linked the Medici court's political seat of power (Palazzo Vecchio) with its private residence (Palazzo Pitti, bought by Grand Duchess Eleonora in the 1540s). Cosimo had, several years previously, nominated Francesco Regent, and withdrawn to his private residence in Palazzo Pitti, from whence he continued to watch over and suggest the course to be followed by his son, who instead lived in Palazzo Vecchio. Hence the need for a direct link between the two palaces, one capable of providing safe passage in the case of political upheavals or natural disasters such as floods.

Florence thus gained a beautiful 500-meter-long aerial route, which crosses Via Ninna, passes through the renowned galleries of the Uffizi, parallels the Arno, supported by sober arches modeled on those of Roman aqueducts, and then crosses the river above the shops of Florence's celebrated jewelers. It then circles the tower of the Mannelli family, supported by an ingenious arrangement of corbels, continues into the Oltrarno, through the Church of Santa Felicita and the buildings owned by the Guicciardini family, and thus reaches Palazzo Pitti's Boboli Gardens. This new aerial route was more than a simple demonstration on Cosimo's part of the power his family held over Florence. It was a means of astonishing foreign guests, by inviting them to see the precious artwork the Corridoio contained and to admire unusual views of the city. It also made the people of Florence feel the constant, fatherly, but firm presence of the Medicean government. Indeed, even now the numerous round windows with protruding wrought-iron grills seem like so many eyes watching over the city.

The Corridio passed from the Medici to the House of Lorraine, to the House of Savoy, and in 1865, to celebrate the nomination of Florence as Capital of Italy, was opened to the public for the first time. It was severely damaged during the last war, again by the 1966 flood, and yet again by the bomb that rocked the Uffizi on May 27, 1993. When the Corridoio's restoration was completed this September, it was once again opened to the public.

The tour begins at the Galleria degli Uffizi, (the western entrance), and is divided into five sections.

The first, consisting of the entrance and two halls, contains primarily Caravaggesque works; among the most interesting are Guido Reni's David and Goliath, and Artemisia Gentileschi's Judith.
The second continues down Lungarno Archibusieri, and contains works from the 16th and 17th centuries, grouped by regional schools. Of particular interest are Guercino's Sybill, Reni's Susanna and the Old Men, Albani's Rape of Europa, Carlo Dolci's portrait of Ainolfo de'Bardi, and Baciccio's portrait of Cardinal Leopoldo de'Medici.
The third, which crosses the Arno above the shops of the jewelers, hosts the collection of self-portraits by Italian painters that was begun in the 1500s by Cardinal Leopoldo and added to over the centuries; artists still send their portraits today. The section begins with Vasari's self-portrait and Empoli's Saint Eligius, patron of goldsmiths, and, beyond the magnificent views of the city offered by the windows over the river and circling Mannelli's Tower, has self-portraits of foreign artists, including Rubens, Van Dyck and Velasquez.
The fourth has a beautiful balcony overlooking the nave of Santa Felicita, from which the Dukes could attend Mass. It also has 12 cases of miniature self-portraits, in addition to works by more recent artists, including Canova, Fattori, Ingres, Corot, Delacroix, Chagall, Balla and Severini.
The fifth and final section of this fascinating journey features portraits of Italian and foreign nobles and royalty, and offers a superb overview of the fashions from the XVI to the XVIII centuries; one exits in the Boboli Gardens next to Buontalenti's Grotta.

The Corridoio is open to both individuals and groups, though by appointment only; to make a reservation contact the directors of the Uffizi, 8 am - 2 pm, on 055/2388651-2, or go online to Weekend a Firenze's Box Office. Given the high number of requests, you should reserve at least 2 months prior to your anticipated visit.