Cognac

Cognac is the world's most prestigious brandy. It was born in the early 1700s along the Charentes river in the vicinity of the town of Cognac in west central France . The raw, low alcohol , and acidic wines of the area were transformed by double distillation and by extensive aging in oak into a product that could withstand sea voyages to markets in Northern Europe and across the oceans. Since its creation, Cognac has been perfected to such a degree that it has been and continues to be the touchstone against which other brandies measure themselves.

Recently I visited the Cognac producing area and discovered that despite continued success in their most important export market, the United States, the industry is having a difficult time maintaining its share in its own domestic market. In addition, important Pacific Rim markets such as China, Taiwan, Malaysia, and Japan have lately been shaken by financial instability and have sharply reduced purchases. Wine has also been eroding Cognac's dominance of the Far Eastern markets.

The expansion of Cognac consumption depends on the evolution of consumer preference. Young French people under forty years old perceive Cognac as an expensive beverage that must be enjoyed as an after dinner digestif .Lacking the resources to buy Cognac and rarely able to experience the formal dinners in which fine Cognac is usually served as the finale, young French adults have switched to Scotch. In fact, France is the best export market for Scotch in the world. While the wine industry continues to bask in the glow of research that shows that moderate alcohol consumption has a cardio-protective effect, the Cognac industry has garnered none of this positive PR.

Faced with this crisis, the Cognac industry has been promoting Cognac served in a tall glass diluted with either mineral water, sparkling water, club soda, or ginger ale. This makes an inexpensive, refreshing, informal drink that finds most use as an aperitif. Just pour an ounce or two of Cognac into in a tall glass. Add some ice cubes. Then fill the glass with mineral water, sparkling water, club soda, or tonic water if you want a dry mixed drink . Use ginger ale if you would like your drink slightly sweet.

Lovers of fine Cognac served neat might shudder. Yet master blenders, the experts who construct the blends each Cognac house commercializes, often dilute Cognac samples with water to analyze their aroma and taste. To a degree, the high alcoholic content of Cognac obstructs aroma and taste analysis. Of course, it is not necessary to use the expensive, long-aged categories of Cognac such as XO, Napoleon, Hors d'age, etc. A VS (Martel's costs about $30 per bottle.) or VSOP ( Martel VSOP costs about $54 per bottle.) does just fine.

One of the reasons for the strength of the US market is the fashion for cigars. After a fine meal, a fine aged Cognac enjoyed with a cigar provides an explosive blend of smells and tastes. After such an assault on the senses, the palate reaches the end point of stimulation.

Recently I visited Cognac to see for myself what is happening there. I visited two Cognac producers, Martel and Brillet.

Four Cognac houses, Martel, Hennessey, Remy Martin, and Courvoisier sell over 80% of the Cognac sold in the United States. Martel has a very distinctive style. It is a very delicate Cognac. This delicacy comes from blending lots which enhance balance and finesse. Martel uses mixes Cognacs made from the most important quality producing vineyard areas, Grand Champagne, Petits Champagne, the Borderies, and the Fins Bois. Most houses only use brandies made from two or three of these areas. In addition, Martel modifies the distillation process and selects oak barrels that enhance its fine style.

Brillet is a grower-bottler. While Martel buys wines to distill and lots of Cognacs, Brillet grows the grapes, makes the wine, distills it, ages it, blends, and bottles it. Brillet owns vineyards only in the Grand Champagne and Petits Champagne areas, which are known for producing powerful Cognacs that can be aged in barrel for many years. He bottles Grand Champagne and Petits Champagne separately, the Grand Champagne being the longer aged and more expensive product. Brillet vinifies, distills, and ages his blending lots so as to make a richer, denser Cognac. He wants his Cognacs to have a more artisanal taste than the large Champagne houses. Since Brillet is a much smaller producer, his products are less widely available.

An aged Cognac is a wonderful way to end a special meal. On the other

hand, dilutions of less expensive Cognacs in the V.O. and V.S.O.P categories can make delicious drinks. Cognac is a versatile beverage that can enhance casual, as well as, formal occasions.

We thank Bill Nesto for sharing the knowledge he has gained in the course of becoming a Master of Wine.