Le Masse Di San Leolino

Norman Bain is a lucky man: He's doing what he loves, making wine, and doing it very well. His Chianti Classico Le Masse di San Leolino has quietly gained a reputation for being one of the region's best, and most - well - classical wines. It is made according to the traditional formula, and contains none of the Cabernet, Merlot, or other grape varieties that many of the region's vintners now add to their wines in an attempt to appeal to international tastes. "Chianti Classico has its own distinctive and unforgettable flavor," he says, and wants nothing to do with the Vini da Tavola that are now all the rage. Though they may be good, he feels they have lost their ties with the land and are as a result nondescript. A person who lives in Chianti, and especially in Chianti Classico, should make Chianti.

Le Masse di San Leolino's small size gives it several advantages over larger wineries: they are able to devote much more time to the individual vines than could a larger estate, and, come harvest time, are able to go through the vineyards repeatedly, selecting the grapes for the various wines with care. They are also able to monitor the fermentation more closely than could a larger winery.

When Luigi Veronelli tasted the results, he asked, "What more can a Chianti offer?" Norman Bain has found a slice of paradise just outside Panzano: With his wines he shares it with us.

Events has recently interviewed Mr. Bain.