Mushrooms!

If you go out for a drive after an autumn rainy spell in Tuscany, you will find long lines of cars parked along the side of the road, particularly in the Maremma, Garfagnana, and Mugello: Mushrooms have sprouted, and pickers are eagerly searching the underbrush. It's easy; all you need are stout shoes, a vimini basket (that spores can drop out of), and a hooked knife to cut the mushrooms free. It's a wonderful way to spend a day in the woods.

Before you take off armed with enthusiasm, however, there are several things you should know. First, there are bag limits, which vary from place to place; the Comune where you're planning to go will be able to inform you. Next, there are picking reserves (like hunting reserves); make sure you don't stray onto one. Finally, be sure of what you pick. The porcini that sprout under chestnut trees are distinctive enough, but many other edible mushrooms have close relatives that will taste great and kill you. So before you pick everything in sight (for example the pair shown here), think. Better yet, go with experienced friends, and pick only what they tell you to. Even so, you should have the experts at the health service look over your catch; that's what they're there for.

There are some mushrooms you won't find unless you have a trained dog: truffles. Fortunately, there are truffle fairs. San Miniato's begins in October, with truffle based dinners at Corazzano and Balconevisi, and the Sagra del Tartufo Bianco at Balconevisi. In November the activity shifts to San Miniato proper, with the Mostra Nazionale del Tartufo Bianco. For further information, call the tourist office, on Italy 571/42745. San Giovanni D'Asso's fair takes place in November, as does that of Cittá di Castello.

What to do with your mushrooms? Ovoli are a fine addition to a salad. Porcini caps are wonderful grilled, while the stalks, diced and simmered in butter or oil with a sprig of nipitella, a clove of garlic, and seasoned to taste, are excellent as either a side dish or pasta sauce. The other less prized mushrooms, such as paonazzi, can be cooked like porcini stalks (if you like it, add a tablespoon or two to tomato sauce), and eaten right off or frozen for later use. Truffles are grated over foods to flavor them. According to Artusi, they can be stored for a short while in rice, but you should keep in mind that the rice will absorb their aroma, and they are perishable.