SNOW AND STEAM

Monte Amiata, with Abbadia San Salvatore in Foreground

Monte Amiata is beautiful in the summer, but it's nice in the winter too, and is an ideal spot for a weekend of skiing; you can either drive or take a bus to get there. If you are driving, follow the Cassia (S.S. 2) to the turn off for Abbadia San Salvatore, Monte Amiata's major town. Continue through the town and up to the lifts, or take one of the shuttle busses that depart regularly from Abbadia.

There are a number of trails, ranging in difficulty from green to black. Ski-passes cost £ 38.000/day (30.000 on weekdays), and weekend passes cost £ 65.000 . Should you need instruction, individual lessons cost £ 35.000 Lire/hour; while group lessons cost £ 20.000/person (2 hours, min. 5 people). There are also several cross-country trails.

Once you have finished skiing for the day, you can return to Abbadia, whose streets take an an otherworldly quality when they're dusted with snow. You'll feel as if you've taken a step back in time as you visit the Romanesque Abbey on the outskirts of town, especially when you explore the 8th century crypt. Or you can visit the other towns perched on the mountain's flanks. Amiata in winter Santa Fiora is romantic, and the fish pond will have intriguing ice formations if it's cold enough. Also, don't forget to duck into the Pieve, dedicated to Saints Flora and Lucilla, to see the Della Robbia terracottas. The Ristorante Al Barilotto (Via Carolina 24, Tel. 0564/977089, closed Wed.) is good, and reasonably priced.

The next day you can return to the slopes, or you can visit the mountain's other fortified towns; Arcidosso has a massive stronghold, while Castel Del Piano has a nice park and a charming centro storico that offers many pretty views of Monte Amiata.

There's also another possibility: you can go soak in a hot pool. Bagni di San Filippo has a thermal waterfall whose 40 °C water is delightful year round, and especially invigorating in the winter. It's also much prettier in the winter, because steam billows up from the hot water. Be sure to bring a bathing suit and towel, since there are no changing facilities. To reach the falls, circle back to Abbadia San Salvatore, follow the signs for Bagni di San Filippo, and once you get there, ask for directions.

The hot falls You will be soaking in good company: Lorenzo il Magnifico cured his shoulder, and Grand Duke Ferdinand II recovered his health in these waters. Once you are done, the area around the Bagni San Filippo is full of strange travertine formations that look like ice falls. If you want to continue sight seeing, Radicofani, the town with the tower on the hill facing Abbadia, was used as a base by Ghino di Tacco, a thirteenth century bandit whose ferocity is remarked upon by both Boccaccio and Dante. The present castle is a reconstruction of the original, but is impressive none the less. The Romanesque church of San Pietro, on the other hand, is original, and has a beautiful collection of early Renaissance statuary, including many Della Robbias.

From Radicofani continue north towards Chianciano Terme; stopping at the town of Contignano, a pretty mediaeval hamlet with a nice marble well in the main square. Continue on until you reach Chianciano Terme. The modern part of the town has many elegant spas, while the mediaeval centro storico is very pretty. From Chianciano, follow the signs to Chiusi, and take the A1 motorway home.

Unless you are pressed for time you will likely want to visit Monte Amiata for a weekend. The Associazione Promozione Turistica, Via Mentana 97, Abbadia S. Salvatore, Tel. 0577-778608 / Fax 0577-779013 has information on hotels. Finally, be sure to buy some Amiatine chestnut honey to take home. It's excellent.