Villas and Fortifications:
Living in Chianti
Vineyards near San Donato
Tuscany's Chianti Classico region has drawn people for thousands of years. The Romans colonized it, farming the lowlands unclaimed by the hill-loving Etruscans. The Lombards moved back up to the hilltops with their castles. The Sienese and Florentines settled widely, fighting wherever they chanced to meet, and everyone withdrew to the hill towns when foreign armies invaded. After Siena's fall in 1555, having a Podere (a farm) in Chianti became fashionable, and fortresses became summer estates. They're as beautiful now as they were when Machiavelli brooded in his, and La Gioconda posed in hers. You will need a car; the trip will take a full day, and do call ahead to let people know that you would like to visit - otherwise some of them will be out in the vineyards.
Unless you are already in Siena, it is easier to enter the Chianti region from its northern, Florentine end. Exit the A1 Highway at Firenze Certosa and take the old road for Siena; you will be on the Cassia, the Roman road to Rome. Follow it past the American War Cemetery, until you come to the turn off for Scopeti, a sharp right that immediately crosses a bridge. The road winds up through a forest, and comes out in some of the more northeasterly vineyards of the Chianti Classico region. Macchiavelli wrote The Prince while he was exiled to L'Albergaccio, following the return of the Medici family to Florence in 1498, and his melancholy "here I am stuck in the middle of nowhere" letter to a friend, which the town now proudly quotes, was doubtless inspired by the tantalizing view of Florence nestled in the valley. L'Albergaccio is now seat of the Chianti Classico Consortium, while Macchiavelli's house, owned by the Serristori Family, is a hotel/restaurant, and can be visited. The large villa on the next hill over is owned by the Hare Krisnas.
Continue towards San Casicano, and turn left for Mercatale. When you reach Mercatale bear right on the road that skirts the town, and then turn left, towards Greve. You will come to an intersection, with, to your right, the Castelli di Grevepesa winery, the largest cooperative winery in the region. Turn left, and after about a mile you will find, on your left, Terracotte Del Chianti, a small factory where terracotta wares are produced the traditional way, by pressing the clay into plaster molds or sculpting it by hand. Carlo Chiti makes everything from urns for olive oil to chimney pots, and will be happy to talk to you as he works; indeed, you may find it difficult to get away.
Return towards Greve, and turn left at the cement
works, towards le Bolle. When you reach the Chiantigiana (SS 222) turn right,
and right again onto the dirt road that leads up to Castello di Vicchiomaggio,
a Lombard fortress built to dominate the Greve Valley. The imposing tower, one
of the most characteristic landmarks in the Chianti region, was added in the
13th century to make it easier to spot Sienese marauders. Later, the
castle became a Medici summer palace, hence its name (May Castle). Though the
castle proper is closed to the public (it operates as a restaurant for large
groups), you can visit the grounds, which include a small but elegant formal
garden with a beautiful view of the Greve Valley (ring the bell).
Vicchiomaggio's riserva is good, and Prima Vigna, a cru from a vineyard planted
in the thirties, is excellent.
Upon leaving Vicchiomaggio continue towards Greve. Though the Chianti region is known mostly for wine, almost all the estates also produce grappa, a distillate similar to brandy, but made from the dregs scooped from the tanks after the fermentation of the wine. Much of this grappa is distilled in the Bonollo Distillery, which you will find to your right after about a mile. The still operates round the clock from October to January, and its jumble of copper tubing and tanks is fascinating even when it's not operating. In addition to the still, you can visit the aging room, a cavernous hall with hundreds of barrels of all sizes, and an interesting (and unique) museum on the history of Grappa.
As you enter Greve bear right, following the signs for Montefioralle. The town, which originally belonged to the Buondelmonti and Ricasoli families, began life as a fortification that could have hosted a sizable garrison (as well as refugees from the surrounding countryside in times of war), with a central keep and thick walls that now contain houses. A stroll along its one circular street feels like a step back in time; duck down the side street between numbers 81 and 101 to see how thick the walls were.
When you have finished visiting Montefioralle, take the road that skirts the town, follow it past where it becomes dirt, and bear right onto a smaller road that leads to San Cresci. Though the church is closed, its Romanesque façade is beautiful, and there is an enchanting view of Montefioralle. Continue down the hill to Greve.
The town, located astride the intersection between the Chiantigiana and the road to the Arno Valley, has always been a regional marketplace, and its heart is an oddly shaped square with porticoes no doubt designed to make it possible for commerce to continue in bad weather. The Antica Macelleria Falorni is heaven for pork lovers, while the Enoteca del Gallo Nero has a spectacular collection of Tuscan wines, including the oldest known bottle of Chianti, from 1885 (drop in to pick up their vintage card - it's a handy reference to have). Greve's weekly market is on Saturdays, and there are fairs and festivals throughout the year, including an exposition of Chianti Classico in September.
Though the wars between Florence and Siena only
ended with the fall of the latter in 1555, in the late 1400's Florentine nobles
began to build summer palaces in Chianti. Perhaps the most beautiful of all,
with magnificent gardens and a stunning view of Panzano, is Villa Vignamaggio,
where Mona Lisa posed for Leonardo and Kenneth Branagh's "Much Ado About
Nothing" was filmed. To reach it, turn left towards Lamole where the road
enters the woods and follow the signs. The estate's flagship wine, Mona Lisa,
is excellent, as is Gherardino, a red table wine. Villa Vignamaggio also rents
rooms, should you suddenly decide you want to get away from it all - they're
very nice. (Call 055-853007 to let them know you are coming).
It will likely be close to lunch time; the Trattoria Montagliari, on the Chiantigiana below Panzano (055-852184, no credit cards), has mouth watering antipasti and a first rate grill. Their 1990 vintage is good, and for a rare but expensive treat, try a bottle of Brunesco. The vinsanto, sampled by Winston Churchill in 1944, is also nice.
Continue up to Panzano, Florence's last bastion against the Aragonese in 1471. The town has a massive keep, whose gate is immediately to the left of the church, with the odd modern façade (inside there is a fresco by the school of Ghirlandaio). A half mile beyond Panzano, to the left, is the Pieve di San Leonino, one of the prettiest churches in Chianti, with a beautiful portico and a number of 14th century paintings. Since Monsignor Manetti is quite busy, you should call (055-852040) to let know you are coming.
In the past the Chianti region's estates were self sufficient,
producing everything they needed, while now they are almost exclusively
dedicated to wine and olive oil.
In few places is this more evident than at
Volpaia, a pretty 13th century fortified town that has been
converted into a sophisticated farm, with the olive press, fermenting vats, and
holding tanks in the buildings, and the casks in the cellars. The guided tour
costs £17,000 per person (minimum of three) and includes a wine tasting,
under an arbor weather permitting - call 0577-738066 for reservations (it's
well worth it). To reach Volpaia, turn left onto the road for Radda, and left
again after 10 km onto the road for Volpaia. Volpaia's vineyards are among the
most elevated in Chianti, and in good years the wines are spectacular: complex,
full bodied, and with an enticing bouquet. In addition to Chianti, the estate
produces two table wines, Balefico (Sangiovese, Cabernet and (perhaps) Merlot)
and Coltassala (Sangiovese with a little bit of Mammolo), both of which are
quite good, and olive oil (ask to see the press, especially in the fall, when
it's running). Like Villa Vignamaggio, the Castello di Volpaia rents rooms.
You may wonder how the farmers whose labors made all the villas and churches possible lived. Though the civiltá contadina has been swept away by the changes of the past 40 years, Sergio Manetti, owner of Montevertine, was on hand to collect tools and equipment, and now has a fascinating museum, with everything from painted carts to table settings. The museum is free, but you must call 0577-738009 to let him know you are coming. To reach Montevertine, turn left at the top of the hill after the bridge, and left again at the sign for Lucolene. Montevertine is to the left, after about three km. In addition to his museum, Mr. Manetti has superb wines: Pergole Torte was served at the formal dinner of the G-7 meeting in Naples; he also makes I Sodacci, and a Riserva. For something completely different (a collector's curiosity, really) buy a bottle of Tea, a white wine made from what was left on the vines after the 40 days of rain in 1992 - with its beautiful label and intriguing color, it makes an excellent souvenir.
By now it will likely be late afternoon; to return to Florence you
simply retrace your steps: the countryside will look quite different but be
just as beautiful.
© Kyle M. Phillips, III 1996