Florence's Artisan Quarter

Angel, in San Gaetano The most unique thing we offer to visitors on a trip to Florence is a behind-the-scenes look at the artisans at work. Since renaissance times this has been a city of "bottegas", or small artisan workshops. The tradition continues today. On the left bank of the Arno in the Artisans quarter we visit a restoration workshop and school. We enter through a large door on a back street. The workshop itself is arranged around an internal courtyard, hidden from the street. Sixteenth century altarpieces and candelabra sit on the workbenches at different stages of restoration. Canvases to be cleaned and repaired line the walls. Pop music plays on the radio and the upbeat atmosphere created by the young owners here perhaps belies the fact that this is one of the finest restoration workshops in the world.

Florence has had a lot of experience in the restoration field, including the aftermath of the 1966 flood. Antonio, one of the owners, tells us the story of how they brought him what was left of a painting after the bombing at the Uffizi of few years ago: The painting was in shreds and was delivered in a plastic bag.

Just a few streets over there is a workshop where they continue the traditional art of marble inlay. This was an art that reached its height under the Medici grand dukes. The Medici would send these artistic creations as gifts to the crowned heads of Europe when they wanted to impress. Here in the storage room we get to examine all kinds of exquisite marbles in their raw, unpolished form. Orlando, one of the owners, wets them for us with a spray bottle and the colours emerge.

Today they still bring in slabs from Carrara, the same place Michelangelo got his marble. In the workroom they are inlaying the surface of a large dining room table for an Arab prince in Paris. It is about 5 metres long and weighs several tons. In the office there is an inlaid marble fireplace, if not to die for, at least to lie down and feel pretty sick about.

Onward, we find gilders and painters at work, hand-decorating furniture with curling leaf designs inspired by the 15th century patterns in their neighbourhood church of Santo Spirito. In one cramped workshop, piled high with gilded frames and chairs to be restored, Beppe the wood carver will let us choose one of his delicately carved wall sconces, or he will restore one of the small Venetian carved candlesticks in need of repair. 17th Century silk tapestries in San Gaetano We can then discuss having it painted and gilded by Guiseppe, the gilder. The prices aren't bad and it's definitely worth it if you will be staying for more than a few days. You get the pleasure of an object made by hand especially for you, what better souvenir?

Time permitting, we can also take you to see a silk weaving factory where they are still using hand looms from the 1700s to create brocades and taffetas that shimmer in the light coming through the old glass windows. These silk weaves were once the exclusive property of individual noble families. In 15th century frescoes we can spot the female members of prominent families wearing their trademark silks.

Bookbinding is another ancient art that is still carried on with love here in Florence. In the tiny back room of his workshop Carlo tells us that the Chinese were the first to invent paper and that the art of marbled paper came down to Florence through Venice. He works as he speaks, creating swirling fans of colour suspended on the surface of a tray of water. He then lays a sheet of paper on top and deftly slides it off again, transferring the pattern to the paper surface, a small miracle.

And not to neglect the olfactory, we have a treat for your nose too. In the Antique Pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella the fragrance of herbs and potpourri gently surrounds us. Here are the headquarters of the artisans of scent from way back. The Dominican monks who founded the monastery of Santa Maria Novella in the 13th century had a garden of medicinal herbs, and with these they tended to the sick. The tradition has continued through the centuries.

Among the items for sale, besides their glorious potpourri, are Sali di Pediluvio (for the footsore tourist), which we recommend highly. A peek out the back door gives you a view of the 14th century cloister of Santa Maria Novella.

We thank Alison Bukhgalter for pointing out a number of things you may encounter as you explore Florence's Oltrarno. She does this for a living, as director of
Art Immersion Tours of Florence
Via Mariotto Albertinelli, 10
Firenze, Italia
Tel/fax: (I-55) 714033

If you would like to know more about her work, or perhaps ask her to guide you in your discovery of Florence or Tuscany, you can either visit her website, or send her an email, to bkhwly@tin.it