Wandering in Southern Tuscany
Located in Southern Tuscany, the Etruscan hill towns of Pitigliano, Sovana and Sorano form a magic triangle. The sense of magic and mystique is slowly revealed to the visitor, who is often caught unawares by the surprising beauty of the locale. The geographical area is an inspiration in itself: rolling hills and fields dotted with sheep, vineyards, and olive groves alternate with steep gorges, rivers and water falls. The Etruscan-Medieval atmosphere has remained unchanged since the 16th century, largely due to the lack of a direct route connecting the towns to the major thoroughfares.
All three towns are located high on spurs of volcanic rock surrounded by rivers: the clusters of houses in Pitigliano and Sorano seem to clutch at the cliffs. These two towns are embroidered with narrow streets, allies and stairways sprinkled with outstanding views.
Each town has its own appeal: Sorano has recently restored its Renaissance fort; the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul in Sovana has changed little in 5 centuries, and there are unusual Etruscan tombs peculiar to the area; Pitigliano was also known as the Little Jerusalem because of the welcome it extended to Jews forced to flee Rome and the Papal States in the 16th century, and to the Jews of the nearby town of Castro, whose ghetto was burned in the 17th century. The rulers of Pitigliano encouraged Jews to settle, offering them the freedom to live and work in a climate of acceptance. Jewish customs, foods and words were slowly integrated into the local culture and are still quite evident today. The Synagogue, built in 1598, which suffered extensive damage during World War II, has recently been rebuilt and restored. There is also the Jewish cemetery, and a kosher bar. There is much to explore and discover in these refreshingly unique places.
Enjoy!
Ellen Santucci Masi
Getting there: You will need a car. Follow the Cassia, SS2, south from Siena until you reach lake Bolsena, then take SS 489 west, towards Pitigliano. It will merge with SS 74, which leads into the town. From Pitigliano, follow the signs for Sorano and Sovana.
Further information on Italian Jewish Culture:
- Pitigliano
- The Tuscan Jerusalem, a beautiful Tuscan town with a flourishing Jewish community until the War. The site discusses history, foods and wines.
- L'Itinerario Ebraico --The Jewish Itinerary
- Background on the Jewish communities in a number of cities and towns where Jews played prominent roles, and tourist information too. Nicely done but only in Italian.
We thank Ellen, who has worked in Tuscany as a tour guide for more than 20 years, for sharing her insights and site suggestions with us. If you would rather let someone else drive so you can enjoy the scenery, she will be quite happy to arrange things for you, or lead you on a half-day walking tour of Florence's beautiful Jewish landmarks. Use the form on the Grape Adventures site to contact her.