What's the Weather Like?

Il Biancone during the great freeze of 1985 About once a week someone writes to Rec Travel Europe asking what the weather will be like in Florence or some other part of Tuscany.

The answer is, unpredictable; as of this writing, in Mid-October 1997, it's in the high 20s (Centigrade - equivalent to high 80s Fahrenheit) and sunny. This is completely exceptional and will result in memorable wines. October 1992 was also exceptional: We got more rain than any October in living memory, and half the region, including a sizeable section of Florence, ended up under water.

What's it like in non-exceptional years? Italy has a Mediterranean climate, which generally means wet falls and springs, hot dry summers, and winters with alternating cold dry and cool wet spells.

To begin with winter (Early December-Early March), Florence alternates between crisp clear and cold wet days; daytime temperatures are generally above freezing, while it can dip below freezing at night, especially if the sky is clear. When a storm comes through it is generally a few degrees warmer, getting up to 6-7 °C (about 40 F). Snow is rare; the last time it stuck for more than a day in town was 1985, when the Arno also froze, for the first time since 1929. Outside of Florence temperatures are generally 2-3 °C cooler, and what comes down as rain in town often comes down as snow in the hills (this makes clear winter days after storms quite beautiful). So, if you will be here in winter, you will want to bring warm clothes, rain gear, good all-weather shoes, and an umbrella.

The Tuscan spring is often lazy, taking its time in arriving. Though by mid-March the days are longer, Florence can be both damp and cold, especially after several days of leaden skies. However, as March drifts into April the trees turn green and clear days have a wonderful warmth to them; you'll see people gathering in parks to soak up the sun, while tanning fanatics will begin to crowd the banks of the Arno in Florence (especially just up river of the Uffizi, by the spillway), the bravest in their bathing suits. Don't be fooled however; things can change quite suddenly: I recall a sunny morning in mid-April 1986 that was followed by snow at noon. As is the case in winter, it is generally 2-3 degrees warmer in Florence than it is in the country, and the hill towns are cooler than the valley floors. If you will be here in early spring bring warm clothing, rain gear, and an umbrella.

By the end of April temperatures usually begin to rise, so if you plan to arrive here in late April or May pack lighter clothes, bringing a sweater or jacket as insurance against a cold snap and for evening use. Tanning fiends at work Again, bring rain gear -- in spring there are often storm cycles, with one or two days of clear weather followed by one or two days of rain.

Though June 21^st is technically the first day of summer, from a climatic standpoint the Italian summer begins when the Azores High shifts, bringing high pressure air over the Peninsula that keeps unstable Atlantic air masses at bay. It can happen any time after the beginning of June, though it often occurs towards the end -- temperatures suddenly climb into the 30s (90s °F), the sky clears, taking on a pastel blue hue, and the classic weather one associates with summer in Italy begins. Unfortunately, Florence is in the bottom of a valley: It's pleasant early in the morning, but by 11 or so it will be quite sticky (especially in July and August), and you'll find yourself drawn to the cool depths of churches, or decide to enjoy the breezes in Fiesole or San Gimignano. Evenings can, however, be very nice.

The summer climate varies throughout the rest of Tuscany, though daytime temperatures will be in the 30s (mid-high 90s F) in most areas. Lucca is at the mouth of a valley, and is both hot and humid, as is Pisa. The Versilian coast is usually more pleasant, with sea breezes to cool things off. It can also be quite wet if clouds form over the Apuans. South along the coast it becomes drier -- rain any time after June is rare south of Livorno -- it's hot, but dry and well ventilated. Going inland, Southern Tuscany is hot but dry, and can therefore be extremely pleasant. Siena always seems to have a breeze blowing, as does Arezzo, and you may well need a sweater in the evening. As you might expect, if you visit Monte Amiata or the Monti Pistoiesi (respectively in Southern Tuscany and north east of Florence), it will be cooler, though none of Tuscany's mountains remain snow-covered year round.

In terms of what to pack you will want light clothing. If you are male feel free to pack shorts (Italian men do don them when they're not at work); if you are female you can pack whatever you please without worry of offending local mores (this summer bare midriffs and miniskirts were in). Do keep in mind that though the Italians won't care what you wear some churches will; Florence's cathedral, to name one, has a dress code: No shorts for men, and no bare shoulders for women. Your best bet if you are male will be to bring light slacks; if you are female a shawl draped over your shoulders will be sufficient. Don't forget to pack a light sweater or jacket for evening use, and don't forget an umbrella. Footwear? Comfortable walking shoes; sandals are perfectly acceptable.

Autumn, is, for many, the nicest time of the year in Tuscany: The temperatures drop off as the days shorten, but it remains quite comfortable until the Azores High shifts back to its winter home, allowing unstable Atlantic air to reach the Mediterranean. Florence's Duomo, winter 1985 Before then the weather is generally good, with clear days that have wonderfully warm yellow light, and cool evenings that will require a jacket or sweater. Once the rains arrive you will want rain gear, all-weather shoes, and heavier clothing, because temperatures will drop off considerably: Winter is knocking on the door again.

Of course it's one thing to know the general trends, and another to know what's happening tomorrow. Thise sites will give you up-to-the-minute information: