A Tu Per Tu con il Grande Blu
Genova's Aquarium is the largest in Europe and an ideal change of pace, especially if you're traveling with people who swear they'll scream if they see another Venus reclining or Botticelli. Even if you're quite certain that what you really crave are the quiet depths of the 8th century crypt of Abbadia San Salvatore, you should add it to list of destination because there's lots to see. The major attractions are:
- The Medusa Tank, a 7-foot diameter cylinder 25 feet high filled with delicate jellyfish; the hall is darkened and the tank lit with blue spotlights, making the jellyfish resemble galaxies pulsing in the night sky;
- The Seal Tank: A sizable tank that reproduces the bottom morphology of the Sardinian reefs where Italy's only surviving seal populations live – since the monk seals are a protected species, what one sees are Atlantic seals instead, darting and swimming among the rocks.
- The Open Mediterranean Tank, one of the largest aquarium tanks in the world, stocked with gray sharks and other open-water fish (Seriola dumerili, which appear to be related to tuna, for the most part). This and the next tank, which contain dolphins, are certain to appeal to children, though some adults may like them less.
- The Posidonia Tank, a tank dedicated to the Mediterranean's major sea grass (Posidonia oceanica) and the animals that live with it;
- The Caribbean Tank, a spectacular recreation of a coral reef, with beautifully colored fish, corals, anemones, and even a sea turtle (you'll wonder why you came to Europe…)
- The Flooded River Tank, which recreates a tropical flood plane (less the mud), with bizarre and beautiful fish swimming among tree trunks and hanging vines;
- The South Atlantic Coastal Tank, which hosts a small colony of penguins;
- The Mangrove Swamp Tank, with fish that have adapted to the tides' leaving them above water for part of the day, and walk about on their fins (or so says the guide book), frogs, and other critters who can tolerate brackish water.
- The Wave Tank, a recreation of a rocky coast, with "waves" that break every 15 seconds or so, and the fish who prefer this sort of environment, darting among the bubbles without getting dashed against the rocks.
The aquarium also has many smaller tanks with all sorts of
tropical and temperate-water fish, from goldfish to Murray eels (two in their
lairs, one with just its nose (and open mouth) sticking out, and a third draped
over the rocks like a scarf on a chair-back). There are also terrariums with an
astonishing variety of reptiles and amphibians, again in faithful recreations
of their habitats (some with so many plants that the animals are almost
impossible to find), and there are also traveling exhibits (for example,
Amerindian gold, which has little to do with the sea but fit in very well).
Once you've seen the Aquarium, there's also a maritime museum, with
nautical instruments from the days of sail,
reconstructions of the interiors of vessels (including a pantry), and exhibits
on the trades that depended upon the sea.
Getting there, and practical things. Genova is a 2-hour drive from Florence, and a visit to the aquarium is a nice alternative to Pisa if you're spending a couple of days in Versilia and have overdone your sunning. If you come by train, take a bus from the station to the waterfront. If you're driving, exit the highway at Genova Ovest and follow the signs (bear left at the light at the end of the exit ramp). There is parking at the aquarium. The ticketing is odd but makes sense -- to keep the aquarium from becoming jam packed, tickets are sold by timeslots. The visit begins with an optional 10-minute documentary, and takes 1-2 hours (or much longer if you're with a small child who can't get over the sharks).
Have a great time!