Sant'Ambrogio

Florence's Church of Sant'Ambrogio is at the end of Via Pietrapiana, down the street from Piazza dei Ciompi, a square named after the wool worker's revolt of 1378 (they wanted better pay and working conditions). The piazza, which is less than a century old, hosts an out-door antiques market where one can find pretty things, though perhaps not bargains.

Sant'Ambrogio's façade may be uninspiring, but don't let that fool you: The church behind it is one of the strangest and most interesting in Florence. It's also one of the earliest; historic records mention that Benedictine nuns took possession of it in 988. The present building is more recent, however, dating to the early 13th century, as one can see from the Gothic windows on the right wall. As you enter, on your right, you will see Andrea Orcagna's Madonna Enthroned with Saints John and Bartholomew. The synopia, the under-drawing from which he worked when he did the fresco, was uncovered during the restoration that followed the 1966 flood, and is now on the front wall of the church. Along the side walls there are odd stonework arcades that were added sometime in the Renaissance, perhaps because there was insufficient space for true side chapels. It's interesting to note that the Renaissance architect was quite willing to destroy earlier artworks that we now consider priceless, for example Nicola Gerini's Deposition from the Cross, to bring the building into line with the standards of his day. There's an obvious parallel with the renovation of Piazza Della Repubblica carried out by the Town Council in the 1890's.

In partial defense of the man, one should point out that he likely considered these works quite minor -- Sant'Ambrogio boasted a number of true treasures, including Masaccio and Masolino's Sant'Anna "Metterza," Filippino Lippi's Incoronation of the Virgin, and Botticelli's Pala delle Convertite, all of which are now in the Uffizi. And there are also treasures in two of the side arches: the Madonna del Latte (the Madonna suckling Jesus), by one of Orcagna's students, in the second arch to the right, and Cosimo Rosselli's Jesus among the Saints, in the third arch to the right.

In any case, the church was further reworked in the early 18th century by Foggini, who designed one of the most harmonious Baroque apses in Florence, and added a spectacular altar inlaid with semi-precious stones.

Sant'Ambrogio also has the Cappella del Miracolo (to the left of the main altar), built in the 1480's to hold a flask containing the blood the parish priest, Ugaccione, found in the bottom of the wine chalice he'd forgotten to wipe dry after saying Mass one day in 1230. The tabernacle is by Mino da Fiesole, who is also buried in the church, the candlesticks are by Della Robbia, and the frescoes are by Cosimo Rosselli. They're quite beautiful, and in the course of the restoration that was recently carried out the sinopia was detached and mounted on the wall immediately to the left of the chapel (as you face the fresco). It's quite interesting to note the perspective lines Cosimo sketched into the upper part of the sinopia to help him place the houses correctly, and to note that he drew some of the figures partially nude, in particular outlining the buttocks of a woman who is facing the other way, likely to help himself remember the volumes when he was painting the robes -- hers is blue in the finished fresco.

If you like out-door fruit-and-vegetable markets, you should visit the Mercato di Sant'Ambrogio when you have finished exploring the church: Take Via dei Macci, and turn left at the Ristorante Cibreo, one Florence's more trendy restaurants.